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Travel to sacred sites in India — Rishikesh, Varanasi, Ganges River Aarti, yoga, and transportation from Delhi

Evening Ganga Aarti of Dashaswamedh God, Varanasi, India — Highlight of the Ganges River Spiritual Journey
The evening Ganga Aarti of Dashaswamedh Ghat in Varanasi is a symbolic scene of travel to holy places in India. · Chetanbtc (CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons)

After settling down in India, there comes a point where you begin to wonder about the ‘real India’ outside of Delhi NCR. The first place where the story comes out thenRishikesh and Varanasino see. These two cities are places where the Hindu worldview and the sanctity of the Ganges River are most vividly alive, and they are sacred places that I keep coming back to no matter how many years I travel to India.

However, traveling to sacred sites is different from traveling to tourist destinations.Aarti start time, temple dress code, no photography of makeup lamps, types of scams in early morning boat bookings.If you know a few things in advance, your trip will be much more comfortable. In particular, how to get around Delhi (air, train, car) and the rhythm of making reservations during peak season are the most frustrating parts of a first trip.

This article is based on the first-hand experiences of Koreans who have actually lived in India.Movement from Delhi → Rishikesh Yoga/Aarti → Varanasi Gat/Dawn Boat → Accommodation/Safety/Etiquette → 3 Nights 4 Days/5 Nights 6 Days CourseArranged in order. It can be used for any purpose, from a short weekend getaway to a multi-day yoga retreat.

01Rishikesh and Varanasi — these two holy cities have different personalities

When planning a pilgrimage to India, the first two cities that come to mind are Rishikesh and Varanasi. Both places are sacred places where the Hindu worldview is concentrated around the Ganges River, but when you actually go there, the colors of the cities and the nature of the trip are quite different. It is better to understand this personality difference and decide which one to go to first or to continue between the two cities.

To put it simplyRishikesh is the ‘living capital of yoga and meditation’, Varanasi is ‘the city of gods where life and death face each other’no see. Rishikesh is characterized by the clear water of the upper Ganges at the foot of the Himalayas and the orderly atmosphere of an ashram, while Varanasi is a place where the narrow alleys, crematories, and evening aarti of the mid-Ganges plain leave a strong impression.

divisionRishikeshVaranasi
StateUttarakhandUttar Pradesh
location of the ganges riverFoothills of the Himalayas, upper reaches (clear)Central Plains, Middle River (Ocher Color)
travel personalityActivities such as yoga, meditation, ashram, rafting, etc.Temple, Gat, Evening Aarti, Early Morning Boat
Eating/DrinkingAccording to city ordinanceProhibition of sales of meat and alcohol(Focus on vegetarian food)Variety of regular restaurants, vegetarian options in every alley
Recommended stay2-5 nights (1 week or more for yoga purposes)2~3 nights
Linked travel destinationsHaridwar, Dehradun, MussoorieSarnath (11km), Ayodhya

If you have room in your scheduleDelhi → Rishikesh → VaranasiThe order is recommended. After clearing your mind in the clear and quiet Ganges of the Himalayas and then facing the Goddess and Crematorium of Varanasi, the worldview of Indian Hinduism becomes much more three-dimensional.

02Getting around Delhi — Compare train, air and car options

For both cities, it is most convenient to use Delhi NCR as a starting point. Rishikesh is all accessible by road, train and air, while Varanasi is realistically accessible by air or train. Popular trains during peak season (October to February)Book one month in advanceIt is safer to do so, and it is convenient to create a IRCTC app account in advance.

Delhi → Rishikesh (about 240km)

methodtime takenmemo
Train (New Delhi → Haridwar)4~5 hours + about 30 minutes by taxiRepresentative: Shatabdi Express·Vande Bharat, etc. Approximately 25 km from Haridwar (HW) station to Rishikesh.
By Air (Delhi → Dehradun JollyGrant)Approximately 55 minutes + Taxi approximately 50 minutesApproximately 35 km from the airport to Rishikesh.
Vehicle (taxi, self-driving)About 5-6 hoursTake the Delhi-Mirrut Expressway. Check traffic conditions in mountainous sections during the monsoon season (July-September)

Delhi → Varanasi (about 780km)

methodtime takenmemo
By Air (Delhi → VNS Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport)Approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes + 30 to 40 minutes downtownMost convenient. In operation by several airlines including Indigo and Air India
Train (Vande Bharat Express)About 8 hoursDirect weekly train from New Delhi to Varanasi (BSB)
Train (night sleeper train)11-14 hoursRajdhani·Duronto et al. Advance reservation for 2A/3A sleeper is recommended

Official timetable and remaining seatsIRCTC Official site (irctc.co.in)You can check at , and if you find it difficult to make a reservation, you can also seek support from a travel agency. If you have not yet set up your SIM card, account, and UPI in the early stages of settling down in Delhi.Checklist for your first 30 days in IndiaPlease also refer to .

Panoramic view of the Ganges River and Lakshman Jhulla Suspension Bridge in Rishikesh, India — A spiritual journey from Delhi to Rishikesh
The Ganges River in Rishikesh, at the foot of the Himalayas. It is all accessible from Delhi by train, air and car. · KaustubhNayyar (CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons)

03Rishikesh — The World Capital of Yoga and Meditation, Evening Aarti on the Upper Ganges

Rishikesh is a sacred city located at the point where the Ganges River flows from the foothills of the Himalayas into the plains. The whole cityBan on meat and alcohol salesIt is designated as a religious city, so it has a quiet and restrained atmosphere that is unique to the city. It is a place where long-term practitioners who stay for a few weeks or more for the purpose of yoga and meditation and short-term travelers who come to enjoy aarti, trekking, and rafting naturally mix.

Evening Ganga Aarti — Triveni Gat and Parmart Niketan

Rishikesh's signature Ganga Aarti is held in two locations.

  • Triveni Ghat— A public aarti located in the city center and easily accessible. The festival is led by a group of priests at sunset, and the climax is when candles (diyas) are floated in the river.
  • Parmarth Niketan— Aarti conducted in the ashram’s own ghat. It is conducted with a chorus of young practitioners, creating a much more immersive atmosphere.

Start times vary slightly each year depending on the season. In the summer, it usually starts around sunset (around 19:00), and in the winter, it starts a little earlier (around 18:00).Check the exact time at the ashram or the front desk of your accommodation on the day.do. It is best to arrive 30-45 minutes before the start to secure a front row seat.

Yoga and meditation programs — from one-day classes to 200-hour instructor courses

  • One-day class (drop-in)— Most ashrams and yoga studios offer morning and afternoon hatha yoga and asana classes. There are many places where you can participate without prior registration.
  • 3-10 day short-term retreat— A program that combines meditation, Ayurveda, and pranayama (breathing). Accommodation and meals within the ashram are included.
  • 200/300 Hour Leadership Course (TTC)— This is a 3-4 week immersion course certified by the International Yoga Alliance.

Representative attractions and transportation

A symbol of Rishikesh in the pastLakshman Jhula Suspension Bridge is closed to traffic due to safety inspection.has continued. Nowadays it is common to cross the river to the Swarg Ashram district via the nearby Ram Jhula and the newly built bridge. Traffic availability at the time of visitRe-confirm with your accommodation or local travel agency.do.

Early morning yoga class at Parmart Niketan Ashram, Rishikesh, India — Yoga and meditation practice along the Ganges River
Morning yoga class at Parmart Niketan, Rishikesh. Programs vary from one-day drop-in to 200-hour TTC. · Ken Wieland (CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons)

04Varanasi — Gat in the middle Ganges, evening aarti and dawn boat

Varanasi (formerly Kashi Benares) is considered the greatest of the seven sacred cities of Hinduism. along the Ganges RiverAbout 80 gats (terraced riverside berths)These are connected, and here bathing, prayer, makeup, and evening aarti occur simultaneously every day. When you first encounter the narrow alleys and the tangled flow of cows, autorickshaws, pilgrims, and sadhus (saints), it's overwhelming, but after a few days, you start to notice the rhythm of this city little by little.

Evening Ganga Aarti of Dashaswamedh God

The highlight of my trip to Varanasi isEvening Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghatno see. This is a large-scale ritual in which a group of priests pay homage to the Ganges with bells, conches, incense, and giant lanterns every evening, and pilgrims gather from all over India. You can arrive 30 to 60 minutes before the start and take a seat, or watch from a boat anchored on the river. The exact start time varies depending on the season.Confirmation at the accommodation on the daydo.

Early morning boat tour – leave before sunrise

An experience as impressive as ArtiBoat tour at sunriseno see. If you take a wooden rowing boat out on the river near Assi Ghat while it is still dark, you will see the sun rising over the Ganges River and the pilgrims starting their day. commonly1-2 hours, per personYou can avoid fraud and safety issues by negotiating through the ashram or hotel.

A must-visit attraction

  • Kashi Vishwanath Temple— One of the highest Hindu sanctuaries dedicated to Shiva. Accessibility has been greatly improved following the 2021 Kashi Vishwanath Corridor redevelopment, but entry regulations to the Holy of Holies are subject to frequent change, so please double-check locally.
  • Manikarnika and Harishchandra God— A makeup lamp that applies makeup 24 hours a day.Taking photos and videos is strictly prohibited.And you must quietly and politely pass by.
  • Sarnath— About 11 km from downtown. It is a Buddhist sacred site with the Damek Stupa, where Buddha first preached, and an archaeological museum, and is especially meaningful to Korean and Asian Buddhist pilgrims.
Dawn boat tour of the Ganges River in Varanasi, India — wooden boat departing from Gat at sunrise
Early morning boat tour in Varanasi. Depart when it is dark and face the sunrise and pilgrims' morning on the Ganges River. · Schwiki (CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons)

05Accommodation Selection Guide — Ashram, Riverview Hotel, Godview Guesthouse

Both cities have a variety of accommodation types to suit your budget and needs. Ashrams have strict rules (no smoking, no drinking, adherence to timetables, etc.) but are cheaper, while riverview hotels are more comfortable but more expensive. During peak season (October to February) and major festivalsReservation 2-3 months in advanceThis is the principle.

Accommodation in Rishikesh

  • Ashram— Large ashrams such as Parmart Niketan and Sibanda Ashram also provide rooms to foreign practitioners. Includes yoga/meditation classes and vegetarian mealsMust adhere to a set timetable (meditation at dawn, participation in evening aarti, etc.)do.
  • Riverview Hotel·Resort— Across the river, in the Swarg Ashram district and Tapovan area, there are boutique hotels with river views.
  • Backpacker Guesthouse— There are many inexpensive guesthouses in the area between Lama Jhula and Tapovan, and there are many long-term yoga students.

Varanasi Accommodation

  • Godview Guesthouse— There are many small guesthouses with river views near Asashi Gat and Munshi Gat. There are places where autorickshaws cannot enter because the alleys are narrow.Pick-up information 30 minutes prior to arrivalPlease accept it.
  • Medium to large hotel— There are hotels with good access to the airport and train station in the Cantonment area. It takes 20 to 30 minutes to get to Gat by auto or taxi.
  • Ashram/Temple Accommodation— There are Korean and Japanese Buddhist temples near Sarnath that sometimes provide lodging and lodging for pilgrims. Advance inquiry is required.

Most payments are made by UPI·card, but cash is often required for small guesthouses, boats, flowers, etc.Paytm·PhonePe·GPay practical usage methodclassEssential apps for living in IndiaIt is convenient to check the directions together.

06Safety and etiquette — hygiene, attire, photography, dealing with fraud

The most common problem when traveling to sacred sites in India isHygiene, clothing, photography, fee negotiationno see. Most unpleasant situations can be prevented by following a few basic principles.

hygiene and health

  • Water must besealed bottled waterDrink only, and use ice and fresh fruit juice only at trusted stores.
  • Just dip your feet in the river,Avoid getting river water on your face or mouth.Be careful.
  • Prepare over-the-counter medications such as antidiarrheals, antipyretics, and oral fluids (ORS). If severe symptoms persist for a long time, use a private general hospital (Apollo, Fortis, etc.) and share the situation with the embassy or company representative.

Clothing and temple etiquette

  • both men and womenClothing that covers shoulders and kneesThis is the default. It is useful to bring a thin scarf.
  • When entering a temple, ashram or aarti siteTake off your shoesThere are many places that do it. Shoes that are easy to take off and thin socks are comfortable.
  • There are temples (especially Kashi Vishwanath) where mobile phones and cameras are prohibited.Use the Cloak Room in advancedo.

photo shoot

  • Photography and video taking are prohibited in the cremation hats (Manikarnika and Harishchandra).. Be sure to follow the requests of the bereaved family and priest.
  • During aarti, take pictures quietly from the back row and do not use flash.
  • Prior consent is requested for portraits of Sadhus and locals. After filmingThere are cases where an example is requested., If you don't want to, it's better not to pick up the camera in the first place.

Typical types of fraud and how to deal with them

  • Free flowers and tika (forehead blessing) followed by strong sales— From the beginning, politely decline and do not open your wallet.
  • Unlicensed boat/guide— Please make reservations at ashrams, hotels, or official booths instead of individuals approaching from the river.
  • Auto/rickshaw meter not working— Use the Uber/Ola app first, and if you have to,Confirm fare before boardingdo.

Female travelers should avoid traveling early in the morning or at night, and avoid traveling through street corners or alleys.two or more togetherI recommend doing this. 응급 상황 대응은Guide to using hospitals and emergency medical services in IndiaThis is helpful.

073 nights, 4 days, 5 nights and 6 days travel course — actual itinerary example

You can freely combine them according to your taste, but we have summarized two standard courses that were highly satisfactory among those who actually went.

Course A — 4 days and 3 nights Rishikesh intensive

  1. Day 1— Departure from Delhi (morning train or morning flight) → Arrival/check-in in Rishikesh → Triveni God evening aarti
  2. Day 2— Ashram morning yoga class → Swarg Ashram district walk → Parmart Niketan evening aarti
  3. Day 3— Ganges rafting (optional) or meditation/Ayurveda treatment → Night market walk
  4. Day 4— Morning yoga/walk → Return to Delhi in the afternoon

Course B — 5 nights and 6 days Rishikesh + Varanasi combined

  1. Day 1~3— Same as Days 1 to 3 of Course A (Rishikeshi)
  2. Day 4— Depart from Rishikesh in the morning → Transfer to Varanasi by domestic flight via Delhi → Dashaswamedh Gat Aarti in the evening
  3. Day 5early morning boat tour→ Kashi Vishwanath Temple → Sarnath half-day visit
  4. Day 6— Alley walk and traditional market → Return to Delhi by afternoon flight

If you want to make a short trip on weekends or holidays, Course A is fine, and if you want to experience a wide range of Hindu and Buddhist sacred sites in India, Course B is recommended. both citiesAlleys, crowds, noiseThis is not easy, so the last day of the trip isAllowing a full day's buffer time in your Delhi hotelThis is much more comfortable physically.

Scenery of the upper reaches of the Ganges River in Rishikesh, India — a trip to a sacred site in the foothills of the Himalayas
Upper Ganges in Rishikesh. The clear water that comes down from the Himalayas to the plains is the symbol of this city. · Arpan Mahajan (CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons)

Useful tips

Please arrive 30-45 minutes before the aarti starts.

Rishikesh's Triveni Ghat and Varanasi's Dashaswamedh Ghat both attract crowds during the evening aarti time. Arrive 30 to 45 minutes before the start to secure a front row seat. You can also view the show from a boat on the river, so inquire in advance at the ashram or hotel front desk. Exact start times vary depending on the season, so it is best to double-confirm with your accommodation on the day.

Sales of meat and alcohol are prohibited in Rishikesh — please know in advance

Rishikesh is a religious city where the sale and consumption of meat and alcohol is prohibited by city ordinance. Ashram meals, as well as most restaurants in the city, are pure vegetarian. If you need alcohol or meat, it is better to get it done in Delhi or Dehradun before or after Rishikesh.

Early morning boat reservations are made through the accommodation instead of on-the-spot bargaining on the river.

There are frequent disputes over fares and safety issues with private boat operators who approach on the spot from Varanasi Ghat. It is much safer to make a reservation in advance by confirming the price and time per person (usually 1-2 hours) through an ashram, hotel, or official booth near Asashi God.

Do not take out the camera at all in front of the makeup shade.

Photography and video taking are strictly prohibited in the ghats where cremation is performed, such as the Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat. Be sure to follow the instructions of the bereaved family and the priest, and pass quietly and politely. Taking out a camera itself can cause conflict, so it is safer to leave your phone nearby.

IRCTC Create an account in advance and reserve tickets a month in advance during peak season

Popular trains such as Delhi-Haridwar Shatabdi/Vande Bharat and Delhi-Varanasi Vande Bharat run out of seats quickly during the peak season from October to February. IRCTC You can secure the level you want by creating an account on the official app (irctc.co.in) in advance and making a reservation early in the reservation window (usually opens 60-120 days before departure).

Common pitfalls and how to solve them

!
Not knowing that Lakshman Jhulla's traffic is restricted, he wastes time in front of it.
The Lakshman Jhulla Suspension Bridge, a symbol of Rishikesh, has been closed to traffic due to safety checks. It is common to use the nearby Rama Jhullah and the newly built bridge to cross the river to the Swarg Ashram district, and be sure to double-check with your accommodation or local travel agency whether traffic is open at the time of your visit.
!
The start time of Aarti varies depending on the season, so you arrive late and watch from the back.
It usually starts around 19:00 in the summer and around 18:00 in the winter, but the exact time varies every day. Check at the ashram/hotel front desk on the day and aim to arrive 30 to 45 minutes before the start time.
!
I brought my cell phone and camera to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, but came back because their entry was blocked.
The entry of electronic devices into major temples such as Kashi Vishwanath is strictly controlled. Please check the location of the Cloak Room before visiting, and reconfirm on the day of your visit as the rules for entering the Holy of Holies often change.
!
Your safety is at risk if you get ripped off by a boatman who approaches you from the river or take a poorly constructed wooden boat.
Instead of bargaining on the spot, use ashram, hotel, or official reservation booths. Confirm the fare, time, and route per person in advance, and check whether the boat is equipped with life jackets.
!
You respond to 'free' flowers and tika (forehead blessing), but then you are pressured and asked for a tip behind your back.
From the beginning, politely decline and do not open your wallet. It is most effective to keep walking without making eye contact, and if your wrist is already tied, pay a small amount and leave the area.

Latest updates

  • Improved accessibility to Varanasi temples through maintenance of Kashi Vishwanath CorridorThe Kashi Vishwanath Corridor maintenance project, which opened in December 2021, has greatly expanded the route from Dashaswamedh Ghat on the Ganges River to the temple's most holy place, greatly improving accessibility for pilgrims and tourists.
  • Improved weekly train conditions with the launch of the New Delhi-Varanasi Vande Bharat ExpressWith the establishment of the Vande Bharat Express between New Delhi and Varanasi (BSB), a daytime direct train option of about 8 hours has become established in addition to the night sleeper train. Seat classes and timetables must be confirmed on the IRCTC official site.

FAQ

Rishikesh and Varanasi, where should I start from?
If you have time in your schedule, we recommend Delhi → Rishikesh → Varanasi. After clearing your mind in the clear and quiet Ganges at the foot of the Himalayas and then facing the lampshade and crematorium of Varanasi, the Indian Hindu worldview becomes much more three-dimensional. If time is short, choose Rishikesh if your goal is yoga and meditation, and Varanasi if your goal is temples, aarti, and early morning boats.
Is it okay to take a dip in the water of the Ganges River?
The water upstream of Rishikesh is relatively clear, but the water quality in the midstream section of Varanasi is poor and there is a risk of exposure to pathogens. Just sprinkle water or dip your feet for religious reasons, and be careful not to let the river water touch your face or mouth. Be sure to use only sealed bottled water for drinking.
What time does the evening Ganga Aarti start?
In the summer, it usually starts around sunset (around 19:00), and in the winter, it tends to start a little earlier (around 18:00), but it varies every year depending on the season and religious holidays. Please check the exact start time at the ashram or the front desk of your accommodation on the day and arrive 30-45 minutes before.
Can foreigners enter the Kashi Vishwanath Temple?
Public visits are possible at many times, but entry into the Holy of Holies (inner sanctuary) is sometimes subject to religious restrictions and regulations change frequently. Please check the temple's official information or local accommodation for the latest regulations before your visit. Cell phones and cameras are restricted, so it is convenient to use the storage facility in advance.
How long should I stay in Rishikesh to learn yoga for the first time?
A basic experience can be achieved with a one-day drop-in class or a short-term retreat of 3 to 5 days. If you want to learn seriously, you should plan on an immersion course of at least 1-2 weeks, or 3-4 weeks if your goal is to become a yoga teacher (200 hours TTC). Most ashrams have integrated programs that include vegetarian meals and accommodation.

References & links

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